SEAToday.com, Jakarta - Mooryati Soedibyo, founder of cosmetics and traditional herbal medicine company Mustika Ratu, was seen as someone who lifted the lives of Indonesian women. Women can do anything, including becoming a successful business owner.

At first, Mooryati's expertise in concocting "jamu", the Indonesian traditional herbal medicine, and creating cosmetic products were only known by her closest ones. Slowly, the request for Mooryati's herbal medicine and cosmetic products increased. What's the secret?

The beauty of the royals living in the "keraton" or traditional palaces left many astonished, as they had glowing and healthy skin. Mooryati Soedibyo, born in Soerakarta on January 5, 1928, confirmed that one of the princesses' basic skills was taking care of their skin.

Since childhood, the Pakubuwono X grandchild learned many basic skills, such as dancing, singing, especially Javanese songs, weaving batik, concocting herbal medicine, and creating traditional cosmetic products.

The skills she once considered "old school" profited her, as she opened a business with it. Mooryati moved out of the keraton and lived in Jakarta with her husband Soedibyo Poerbo Hadiningrat. They needed income for their family.

Mooryati wanted to make use of her skills in concocting traditional herbal medicine and cosmetic products. She realized her idea in 1973.

She tried her luck in business at her house on Sawo Street Number 31 in Menteng, Central Jakarta. Her business was called "Tat's Beauty Secret", with "Tat" as a nod to her nickname "Tatiek".

"Her hobby was turned into business in 1973 with the establishment of "Tat's Beauty Secret" at her house on Sawo Street Number 31, Jakarta. The products were distributed to beauty salons, and they blew up," as written in a Tempo article titled "Keberhasilan sebagai Pengusaha" (1983).

Mooryati didn't have to spend much for capital, just 25 thousand rupiahs, which was spent on raw materials for traditional herbal medicines and cosmetic products. Her customers grew and saw her business turned into a successful empire.

Royal Beauty Image

Mooryati's expertise in concocting traditional herbal medicine and creating cosmetic products drew the attention of many. Some turned into regulars, and the others into business partners, including Martha Tilaar. The two established natural cosmetic products.

Her business grew rapidly. Not only did she focus on her product, but also marketing, with her friends' assistance. They advertised that her products could help with achieving royal beauty. Mooryati's products' slogan was "Rahasia Kecantikan Khas Putri Keraton" (The Secret to Royal Beauty).

Mooryati's products were highly sought-after. The demand for her traditional herbal medicine and cosmetic products increased.

"Selling cosmetics means selling dreams and hopes. Her marketing concept was right for the year 1970, where Indonesian women were still looking to be as beautiful as a royal princess, making her product blow up," said Martha Tilaar in the book "Kecantikan Perempuan Timur"  (1999).

However, Mooryati and Martha Tillar parted ways in 1977 due to difference in vision and mission. Then, Mooryati established PT Mustika Ratu in 1978.

Mooryati continued her grip in the Indonesian beauty industry. She established a spa and a traditional education center. A few years later, in 1979, she established a factory in Ciracas.

That factory produced 80 traditional herbal medicine varieties and 70 types of traditional cosmetic products in the 1980s.

New Order Government Chimes In

Mooryati's success was also thanks to the New Order (Orba) government. The government indirectly brought back Javanese feudalism, attracting many to Mooryati's slogan that had the term "keraton" in it.

"The concept that ideal beauty belonged to the royal princesses was formed by Mustika Ratu and influeced by the Javanese feudalism brought back by the Orba government indirectly in the early 1980s," said Khoirun Nikmah in an AVATARA Journal piece titled "Perubahan Konsep Kecantikan Menurut Iklan Kosmetik di Majalah Femina Tahun 1977-1995" (2016).

The Orba government's influence brought Indonesian women back to the old times, when they were obliged to take care of themselves. Mooryati continued triumphing with Mustika Ratu in the Indonesian beauty industry. She managed to adjust the brand continuously from time to time.

That became Mustika Ratu's secret to success, although Mooryati has passed on on April 24, 2024. Her absence was not the end of Mustika Ratu. She left behind a legacy that introduced the image of Indonesian royals' beauty to the world.